Day 8 Ochre Pits to Serpentine Gorge

Bitter and twisted rock

Another windy start to a day in which I slept poorly, even after a 28 km marathon, the previous day.
Breakfast completed and onto the bus for our usual 8.00AM departure for a 20km stroll!
The Spinifex Tongs were passed from Colin to Steve, who Colin felt was appropriate as he had a soft touch, suitable for removing Spinifex spikes from posteriors.
Ochre pits starts with a 500metres stroll along a 3 metre wide paved path! The ochre puts are quite splendid with colours poorly revealed in photos.
Swathes of reds, whites and yellows along a creek bank for about 500 metres.
Then the walk began in earnest, with a brief walk up Inarlanga Pass to see the ancient cycads, that populate the pass. We should have walked this gorge yesterday but our shortcut caused us to miss this.
It was then on to Serpentine Chalet Camp where we had morning tea and some ventured up to see the Serpentine Valley dam that supplied the chalet.
There deep in this ravine is a concrete structure over 30 feet tall made of concrete with a tangle of metal pipes at its base. The dam had filled in with rocks and sand however there was a deep pool leading to a very narrow gorge out of our reach.

Then began our climb onto the ridge a 250 metre climb that ended on a splendid ridge with great views, and out of the chilly wind.
Some of the more energetic trekked off to see Counts Point and the view of the West MacDonald’s.
The less adventurous walked on after lunch and had a great ridge walk, walking at time alongside a precipitous drop into the valley below.
Then off the ridge down stone steps, great work by the Larapinta builders and finally back to the bus.
This is our last night at Glen Helen as we move to Ellery Creek tomorrow to start our remote camps.
This has caused some consternation among the troops as it means trimming their baggage to a minimum. Mad scrambling to fit all that is required into the space that’s allowed as it all has to come in into each camp the back of one Troopie.

Day 7 Ormiston Gore to Ochre Pits

Bloody Mount Sonder

What looked like a hard day proved to live up to all expectations.
An early start, with breakfast at 6.30AM and  departure at 7.30AM.
The Spinifex Tong Award was given to Colin for his Bear Grylls impersonation wading Ormiston Gorge.
An initial creek walk and an easy run with a slow and steady ascent with morning tea in a creek.
Then began the climb proper, punctuated by one of the group leaving his camera behind.
The ridge line was reached with great views back to Sonder and into the Ormiston Pound.
A painful walk along the ridge, through a veritable minefield of rocks until our lunch spot, opposite Mount Giles was reached.
Then a short walk to the  lookout where views to the east almost to Alice Springs and Mount Sonder and Mount Ziel to the west.
Soon after a precipitous descent to Rainbow Creek and Rainbow Gorge where Chris decided a twisted ankle would be a good idea. Some strapping and she was off.
A long walk ensued over rocky ground with the track indistinct and hard to follow in places.
At this stage it was getting late so a planned short-cut was investigated by Simon.

This was Pioneer Gorge that cut through a ridgeline to the plain and Ochre Pits, our destination.
The gorge descent was quite spectacular, yet quite dangerous with boulder and rock hopping the order of the day, around rock pools until almost out onto the plain that one last rock pool that blocked out path.
So it was boots off, once again, and a cold wade to the crutch, much to everyone’s chagrin.
We had almost finished except the 3 km wade through the Spinifex back to the bus.
An 8.00AM start with a 6.00PM finish made for one long day, late dinner with a number of tired bodies sloping off to an early bedtime.
Chris survived, with a sore ankle, others survived with multiple stab wounds from Spinifex.

Simon's thought of the day-Ordinary is extra

Day 6 Ormiston Pound and Gorge

Entrance to Ormiston Gorge from the pound

 A windy night, that had the tents flapping, but kept the dingo out of the rubbish bins, and made for a slightly warmer night.
We also had a later start, as this WAS our rest day, so breakfast was consumed some 30 minutes later than our usual time.
Not all wanted to walk the pound, as this meant wading in crutch deep water in the gorge whilst others had blisters that needed resting, and some were a little fazed by our 30km day to follow tomorrow.
John Quinn also needed the day to go into Alice to get new boots as his had seriously delaminated, with the sole flapping like a large tongue collecting sand.
We had attacked them with contact adhesive, and they looked pretty good, however he wasn’t taking chances.
My boots had also started to delaminate like John’s, tho somewhat less dramatically, and the contact had done its job pretty well. Nevertheless, I was getting some alternative footwear flown up from Adelaide, Just in case. Thanks Toots!!!
So with a later start, and a cool day and only 11 km to walk it looked like a rest day should.
We climbed up onto the southern rim of the pound, past the occasional impressive ghost gum, to attain stunning views over the pound and back to the pound outlet, Ormiston Gorge.
It was an easy descent into the pound with a leisurely morning tea by a waterfall with the mouth of the gorge gaping at us, as we sat.
A lone walker came by with a silly hat!! Like we are the only ones with silly hats. I guess not.
It was then into the gorge, alternatively rock hopping, then sand strolling until we reached the part we had to wade.
Some just took of boots and waded through with chilly water up to the “bits”, however some stripped to the waist, from the boots up, and plunged in.  

Most, I should say were much more discrete and apart from the semi-nudist there were appropriate screams, expletives and hoots of laughter, as the water touched sensitive parts.
It was then a short stroll to the Ormiston Campground where lunch was taken, with an ice cream, as there is a kiosk.
So another early day back to camp with some more time to read, do more washing and generally laze about.
So back to the blogging with some success albeit slow and 500 for others.
A roast for dinner in rather cold windy conditions, then back to the bar at the resort with Slim Pickings playing his blues.
Tomorrow a big day 30km so an earlier start.

Simon's thought of the day- Know thyself

Day 5 Ormiston Gorge to Glen Helen

Bloody Mount Sonder again!

Another cold morning start with the stars still bright in the sky, however all tempered by a great breakfast and some good coffee.
The bus trip to the start was brief and our start time was the earliest to date-8.20AM.
Walking out of what looked like a very posh camp ground that had taps at every camp point, gas BBQ’s and toilets and a rangers station.
The walk was an easy 14 km and followed some splendid creek lines, then a gentle climb up to a lookout point that gave good all round views including what has become the ubiquitous Mt Sonder.
It was then a descent into the Fink River, the oldest river in the world.
On the way we were urged to get a stone from the creek bed as a “story stone”. This was to be used for story telling later in the day.
Lunch was in the shade of a rock that had a large weathered hole in it, through which the trail passed, with views to Glen Helen.
We had walked so well that we arrived back at base just after 1.00PM so had plenty of time to wash, shower and do various house-keeping duties.
Some luckier members, Chris, managed a 2 hour massage, whilst others just had to manage with a vicious hand of 500.

Our  driver and the support crew had headed off to Alice Springs to get some business dealt with and their late arrival back, having demolished a whole troupe of budgerigars delayed, on their way back.
Dinner was a stir fry vegetables with sweet and sour chicken and rice followed by apricots and ice cream. Not a bad effort considering their late start.
Dinner was followed by the “Story Stone” session, run by Chris who was now feeling no pain after her massage, who asked us to tell a story about how we got into walking and how that lead to a connection with the Friends.
Most of the group participated with some very interesting insight into what started people on the path to bushwalking, why they continue and their associated with the Friends.
Unfortunately, too many to include in this narrative, but one is worthy of mention here, that being from Simon who told us he walked the Trail the first time for himself and the next time for other people.
Note the internet connection at Glen Helen is flaky in the extreme hence the lack of pictures. This will be made  good when and if I can.

Simon's thought of the day- The pursuit of happiness doesn't require movement

Day 4 Redbanks Gorge to Glen Helen

Mount Sonder again

A  good night’s sleep started a great day of walking.

Breakfast done and dusted we were out at 8.00AM in the bus to the gorge and walking by 8.45AM.
A good flat track along the Redbank Creek , twisting and turning through splendid mallee country, punctuated by a small number of ghost gums.
We set a good pace getting along at about 5 km per hour.
Morning tea off the track within a nice mallee grove in the shade, as the day was warming up.
Rocky Gap camp preceded a pretty creek walk and lunch in the creek.
The day heated up just in time for our climb to the lookout.



All the way we had great views of our previous days walk, Mount Sonder.
At the top all round views, back to Sonder to the west, Glen Helen to the south and onto Mount Giles.
Then began a long hard decent back to the mallee plain.
By now the day had heated up and the we had a hard final trek back to Glen Helen.
For some straight to the shower, others straight to the bar, either way we all had sore feet.
The evening meal of soup, steak and ice cream with blackberry turnover, the followed the long awaited Tuesday Cheap Film Night in which various members of the party presented their favourite film, as we passed Jaffas around.
David and Margaret critiqued the movies, the first being The Tempest, by Jim Alvey, a Shakespearean drama -which was given 2 and 3.5, respectively.
The second movie was a Japanese drama, The Departure, by Robyn Quinn, about a Japanese cello player who prepares bodies after death, and the cello disappears from the scene, given 3.5 and 4 with amusing comments by the critiques.
The next movie of the night, Sound of Music, a story of a nun and some sort of love story with some old duke guy, presented by Liz Alvey was greeted with derisory cries by the captive audience, as this movie was felt to be rather done over.  Scoring 2 and 5, what a softie.
Jo presented Thelma and Louise, a romantic comedy about two wild women of the Bonnie and Claudia genre. Margaret just loved this movie, one about women and gave it 4. David however was quite derogatory and gave it only 2.
Vicki presented Love Actually,  a soppy story about a single British PM who falls for  Bill Nighy drawing  genitals on a poster. The plot was hard to follow and I doubt it will score well.
Margaret was not impressed gave it 4 and David a 2.
So the winner of the night was Departures.
Then to cap it off the projector blew its bulb and there was no replacement, so a number of the audience repaired to the bar.
It was resolved to have another movie night so we could se those that had been missed.

Simon's thought of the day-Sieze the day

Day 3 Redbank Gorge to Mount Sonder

Wakey wakey was at 6.30AM with breakfast at 7.00AM. Some pretty sleepy faces emerged from the tents, yet most seemed to sleep well. I certainly did, apart from the early hours run to the loo.
Breakfast was pretty good, large variety of cereals, porridge and then bacon and eggs.
The final flurry of getting ready, curses as long gaiters, long NOT worn, were being put on, and not fitting, and we were off just a bit late.
Drive to Redbank was pretty with Mont Sonder, our goal, well in view off to the north.
The start of the walk was delayed by the briefing and the explanation of the awards for the trek. The Spinifex Award for the most significant event or occurrence through the day. The award, a pair of BBQ tongs to assist the removal of Spinifex from various buttock that have the misfortune to find themselves residing in a patch of the said bush.

The Spinifex Tonds ward

The first award was given to Russell O’Brien, who knitted his own beanie following instructions from You-tube.
It was chilly and windy through Redbank Gorge, and after a short walk along Redbank Creek, brilliant red hues along the gorge and finally our path blocked by a rock pool that prevented further access to the gorge that looked pretty and narrow. It was intriguing to see a life preserver on the bank of the creek.
Then, as is Simon’s whim, we bush-bashed out of the creek to pick up the Larapinta in its ascent to Mount Sonder.
Then ensued a steady climb, with various ridge-line and saddles to be negotiated, with the views opening up with each climb.
Morning tea at the Mount Sonder Lookout, still a chilly wind kept up with us, however with ascent progressing the day warmed.
The Mount Sonder summit is not actually reached on this walk, rather the south peak of Mount Sonder.
Having struggled up to the top, much to some of the women's amusement Colin was heard to exclaim "What an orgasmic climax"!

Lunch at the top, and the chance to  talk as there was a Telstra connection, presumably through from Alice Springs.
The longest lunch I can recall with the Friends then took place with an hour lazing looking at the view, 360 panorama, on top of the work, apart from the fact that the real summit lay about 850m across a treacherous looking saddle.
The wind had dropped, the day warmed and we then had the descent back to the Redbanks Camping ground and the bus.
A long rather slow exercise, as a number of the walkers didn’t seem that confident with rocky path. Interesting to watch how people use their sticks. Some just wave them around without then actually contacting terra firma, and then try and awkwardly step down, other leaning back as they attempt to go forward. No wonder at times it was slow.
The track is well marked, rocky and HARD.
I think most had sore feet.

Simon's thought for the day-Who Cares Wins

Day 2 Coober Pedy to Glen Helen

We successfully cross the border

The night was punctuated by the sonorous tones of a lone snorer, at least at our end of the Cave.
Nevertheless most of us slept well, though were woken too early by a miscreant playing the Pomp and Circumstance March.
A 5.00AM wake, the  breakfast at 5.30 with a getaway at 6.10AM, just 10 minutes late.
The dawn broke at 7.00AM somewhere on the way to Marla Bore.
A stop there for coffee and a pee then on to the border.
Wedge tail eagles on the road, getting at the road kill, and being harassed by crows the excitement of the trip to the border.
A brief stop to take pictures of the border crossing and a checking of visa and we were off with Erldunda our next stop and a brief lunch.
Alice Springs arrived and we had an hour to get last minute bits and pieces.

There was a mad scramble for various last minute purchases, water tooth paste and various snacky things.
Picked up our last two trekkers, Jo and John who had flown up and then we headed off to Glen Helen.
At last we got out of the bus after two days and inspected the cabins, whilst the tent people had instruction in tent erection.
The cabins are what you would call basic, and that’s being polite. There is nowhere to hang things, the one set of drawers rock and the drawers fall out onto your toes.
At least we all have a lower bunk.
The tent people actually have more room, albeit on the one level.

Dinner at last, Glen Helen

Dinner at the Glen Helen resort, a BBQ and apple crumble and ice cream, again. Pretty good really.
The Resort has a resident singer who entertained the less bed ready, though turn in time was still only 9.30PM.
The bed was comfortable and sleep came easily.
Link to the pics https://plus.google.com/photos/115827045141699129695/albums/5768309931775987569

Day 1 Adelaide to Coober Pedy

The loadmaster surveys the load

The day did not start that auspiciously! A 4.30AM alarm, the final pack and then my driver arriving 15 minutes earlier than anticipated in finding me sitting on the bog. A mix up communications in which Arrienne’s interpretation won the day and finding me In that embarrassing situation.
The morning was rather pleasant as we all assembled at ETSA park however my happy demeanour was deflated when a call from Eve suggested that there was no bus yet at pick-up point one-Paradise.
Meanwhile the troops arrived and the dimensions of the luggage began to reveal itself. There was lots!
Some 20 minutes later as call from Sonya, the Banksia Tours cook, to say they were on their way down the hill, from Houghton.
So there we were like a bridegroom without the bride.
Finally an hour late, with all lights blazing the bus arrived, and David the driver, contemplated the space available and what needed to be packed. It all fitted and we were off, with an early morning mist accompanying us for much of the first few hours.

The bus had plenty of room inside, a row of seats each at least so we spread out, with most catching up with some of the lost sleep.
Port Wakefield came and went after the obligatory loo stop and a coffee. Then Port Augusta for an early lunch in the park.

Dem rastas are everywhere

Then the long haul to Glendambo with another loo and ice cream stop. By this stage most had settled into a routine of Kindle reading, normal book reading or snoozing. Sporadic conversations at the back of the bus, catching up on the footy scores as we came in and out of Telstra mobile range, then more snoozing.
As dusk fell the lights of Coober Pedy came into view and we pulled into the Opal Cave, our accommodation for the night.
The Opal Cave is a back-packers hewn out of the hill in typical Coober Pedy fashion, with a large central passage and alcoves each side with two bunk beds each room. We all scored a lower bunk, and some even their own alcove.
Unpacked and set up for sleep, some headed for the local bottle shop and some for the showers. You just got to get your priorities right!
Meanwhile, our driver and the Banksia Tours crew are setting up for dinner, putting out seats and trestles, and stirring pots of bubbling stuff. Soup, pasta and dessert later and we are full.
A dancing demonstration by Vicki and Simon, Jim and Liz and its time for bed.
We have another early start in the morning.

Penultimate Packing Day

One day to go, to get the packing right and some consternation seems to be filling the email airwaves.
"How come I can go bushwalking for a month - carrying 7 days worth of breakfasts, lunches and dinners, a tent, cooking equipment and fuel - and it all fits into my backpack along with everything else.

Now I don't have to provide any of that, and I am struggling to fit it into a suitcase, daypack and carry-on luggage." Peter

"Touche Pete I have managed to solidly fill a 60L backpack and my day pack weighs 7kg!" Jo

And they think they have problems.

And still no pillow

Mind you a doctor's bag, an extra first aid kit and some radios doesn't help. Then neither does two cartons of red, and I'm not going to bother about water until A/S (see FAQ), so I shouldn't complain.

Of course I forgot to add my travel back pack with computer, Galaxy tablet and various electronic bibs and bobs. At least that will go with me on the bus.

Some more email exchanges-

"Sounds like you’re doing very well. I am up to a daypack, two boxes, couple of shopping bags and a large luggage bag. Have to find room for a pillow, boots yet." Julian

"Gee its not just a girl thing.. too much stuff! l will be wearing the boots and be rugged up like an eskimo enroute.. Pete has the box with the all important red alcohol and a small pillow bless him. Good luck packing." Jo

"Sorry Jo - only half the red survived the trip back from Kingston Beach. The waters OK though!" Peter

"Cheeky.. it would not be pretty without my medicine! I wholeheartedly trust it will make it up to Alice in it entire volume. Keep packing guys Im done." Jo

So you can see where the priorities lie.

Less than a week to go...

Now less than a week to go and the casualties are mounting.
We have one getting over the flu yet retaining a vicious cough, one working their way through a cold, one who thinks she is about to get the Man Flu and one who has developed sciatica.
In spite of all this, fifteen of the crew fronted on Sunday for the Sea to Summit, that iconic walk that takes you from Kingston Park through the parks and greenways to Mount Lofty summit. All up nearly 32 km with 1400m ascent, even though Mount Lofty is only 727m. Go figure?

Magpie Creek in spate

There has been great discussion about packing, getting everything in and how much room there will be on the bus, how much grog to take.
Also some consternation when it was revealed that our main camp, Glen Helen, does not allow BYO alcohol due to their licencing restrictions. Guess that resolves some of the discussion about quantity.
Looks like some pretty good Happy Hours at the bar however, until the money runs out.
Otherwise, all is go, the meeting places and times all fixed it's just that packing that needs sorting.
All in good time no doubt!!!

Two weeks out

The scope of the walk

The plan to walk the Larapinta Trail, as part of the Friends' walking programme, had been floated for some years. With more time on our hands and less sense it was added to the 2012 Walking Programme in 2011, and so 19 members of the Friends now find themselves just two weeks away from setting off.

The Trek will start at the western end of the Larapinta, near Mount Sonder and walk back to Alice Springs, summitting the said Mount Sonder on Day one.

The preparations started back in June 2011, seeking quotes from various companies willing to undertake the logistic support for the whole trip ie Adelaide to Adelaide return, full meals, tents, the whole kit and caboodle.

Advice was sought from ARPA, who had done the trip in 2008, and it was from them we were able to appraise the quotes we obtained with some confidence.

Surprisingly, all the quotes came in within $100 of each other, per person, however we chose the company with the track record, Banksia Tours.

At this point we struck some problems as communications with Banksia proved difficult and for nearly two months there was silence. The impasse was broken by harsh words on our part, and since then all has been relatively smooth sailing.

The walk, muted in earlier TrailWalker magazines, leading to expressions of interest looked a real goer, with nearly thirty walkers throwing their hat in the ring.

As often happens, when money is asked to follow, the enthusiasm wavers, and after some toing and froing we finally had our twenty walkers.

Negotiations then revolved around who would tent and who would cabin and the cost, who would share with whom, and who snored.

Training was initiated by Simon, along with the regular Thursday evening bash around Chambers Gully that evolved from the Friends' trips to Kokoda in 2008.

Heading towards the start line in two weeks a theme for the Trek was announced "Badges and Beanies" and some events programmed for the evenings.

A FAQ was set up provoking, spirited responses and counter responses and some curious questions.

The final round of payments, with all but the tardy digging deep, has come, and we are in countdown mode.

One last big walk as a shakedowm, the George Driscoll Sea to Summitt, then we are off.