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Friday, August 17, 2012

Epiblog

Some final thoughts on Larapinta - the experience
  • Plan the walk meticulously and communicate with your support team all along the way. I failed to do that and as a consequence our schedule had to be changed, losing a critical rest day (we survived)
  • Be sure all participants have good walking experience and able to do 30+ km per day without distress (not sure how you assess this other than taking them on grueling 30+ km training walk)
  • Make sure all walkers appreciate the Larapinta is tough on boots and feet.
  • Make sure ALL walkers bring their own blister care items, perhaps give a specific list of products each walker is expected to supply.
  • Walking west to east worked for us, even without the rest day at Ellery Gorge.
  • The bus trip up to Glen Helen allowed to group to get to know each other and I think worked well. Flying home at the end, certainly worked for me.
  • What would I leave out. The extra pair of thermal pants, one only needed. Take only one Beanie.
  • Banksia Tours were a surprise, after an inauspicious start (late without an apology) they simply got better and better. David, deaf as a post, especially when he broke his hearing aid, had a dry sense of humour and Sonya was quite charming, and catered to my dietary peccadillo's with great zest.
  • However, they do need some advice re vegetarians and what they do or do not eat. Turkey and chicken don't normally fit into the vegetarian diet, neither does fish, really.
  • The food was simple, however there was plenty of it. Breakfasts consisted of up to five varieties of cereal, porridge most days, toast and often bacon and eggs. Even on the remote camps.
  • Lunches also had great variety including avocado's most days with fruit, muesli and chocolate  bars.
  • Dinners often three course and often ice cream as part of desert.
  • Surprisingly, I still lost about 4 kg.
  • Attached are the links to my Picasa albums if you want to browse my pictures at your leisure
https://plus.google.com/photos/115827045141699129695/albums#photos/115827045141699129695/albums
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Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Day 18 Homeward Bound (for some)

It was a lazy start, with no urgency to do anything, yet many emerged just after 7.00 AM scrounging for a coffee.
It was then a steady parade of sleepy heads coming and going, as those who were flying home got packed up.
I think the bus travelers, who leave tomorrow looked on with some envy.
There were also some very tentative walkers who tip-toed around with sore feet, sore ankles and knees. There were surprisingly few sore heads.
The bus people, once organised headed off to town to mooch around, and perhaps get lunch from a local Vietnamese place, that proved be far from local, about 10 km out of town.
The flyers fiddled and eventually the airport shuffle arrived (on time really) and we were at the airport, John, Jo, Julian, Peter, Simon and Vicki.
There was a slight scare for Jo as she realised as we were about to board she had left her day pack in the coffee shop, so there was a mad race to beat the bomb squad.
An uneventful flight bought us to a very balmy Adelaide and a pretty swift departure to our various abodes.
NOTE -all the daily posts now have photos and slide shows attached and some additions to the text.

Day 17 Simpsons Gap to Telegraph Station-the last day

The tired and relieved leaders
Another early start, with a general air of anticipation, as today is finishing day. A rather subdued bunch on the bus, with little conversation and non of the usual banter or music.
Simpsons Gap was cool and quite delightful in the early morning light, though the walk in the sandy bed wasn’t that welcome.
Back to the start of the day’s walk and the Spinifex Tongs changed hands to Matthew Howie for impeccable manners, dress and being tidy all the time. He took the award with great gravity as future events will tell along with a small bag of cucumber, alluding to a previous night.
I was given the honour, by Simon, of leading the walk today, so off we went.
A fair pace up the first incline and the km markers quickly got lower and lower, with our first stop to change clothes, shed some anyway, came in under 30 minutes at the 2 km mark, on Hat Hill Saddle.
It was then a steady plod along the well made track, heading east most of the time, with a short pause at Fairy Springs for first morning tea.
Some headed off to look at the springs whilst others just sat around.
Then on to Wallaby Gap, a camp ground with seating, shelter and a dunny.
Then our first serious climb, to Euro Ridge, which afforded our first real views of Alice Springs and the Gap, BUT not the Telegraph Station.

The short ridge walk was cool in the light breeze, however the day was getting warm, and the ridge was too early for lunch, however just the right time for second morning tea.
Finding a reasonable place for lunch in the lightly wooded, undulating country, was difficult with no shade, however we finally settled.
Obviously,  I had upset Simon as he pelted me with small rocks throughout lunch, until threatened with a boulder of huge proportions.
Then began the end of walk plot with the km countdown proceeding, over the Ghan line, under the Stuart Highway at Geoff Moss Bridge, which provided welcome shade for a rest.
At this point, Matthew announced he had been very remiss in his duties as Spinifex Tongs trustee, explaining that Simon had been complaining or sore nipples throughout the day, and he had failed to respond appropriately as trustee..
Matthew then proceeded to apply the aforesaid cucumber and hypafix to Simon’s right breast, which he wore with great relief to the end.
We then hit the old telegraph line with  the characteristic three part poles, that lead us past the cemetery and finally to the end, with the traditional arch of walking poles, through which we all walked.
It was done-263 km and 12 days with blisters and sore feet to burn.
Hugs, kisses and photographs and some obligatory speeches.
Then back to base for showers and readiness for our final dinner and celebrations.
The celebration dinner in the common room of the bunk house culminated in strawberries and Golden North ice cream from the pancake van on site and then the awards ceremony in which Simon gave all the walkers and “roasting” award for misdemeanours on the track and a Larapinta Certificate.
Matthew, with impeccable taste, as ever, proposed that the Spinifex Tongs be given to someone who would most likely return to the Larapinta, and hence give them good use and it was so decided to award then to David and Sonya of Banksia Tours.
Slowly, people drifted off to bed, leaving a hard core of about eight to party on, until fatigue took its toll.
Simon's thought of the day-History is why
Pictures to follow when I have a reliable and swift connection.

Sunday, August 5, 2012

Day 16 Rest day or the East MacDonnell Ranges

Emily Gap rock art
Today our second rest day at Alice OR not.
Most elected to have the day in Alice going to the Sunday Markets in Todd Mall, catching up with friends or relatives or just simply hanging around.
Some more intrepid amongst us chose to head east and explore the lesser know MacDonnell Ranges, the other side of Alice to the Larapinta.
Breakfast at 7.30 AM, which most attended in spite of being able to sleep in if they so chose.
The adventurers were out on the road at 8.00 AM and an exclusive group, four in number, were picked by Clive, of Emu Adventures.
A cheery guy from the Congo, who sounded more Seth Efrican, and we were off.
First stop, Corroboree Rock and unusual formation, a sacred site, which we could walk around.
Then onto Ross River Resort, the home of the Ross River virus, a great old homestead, now part of the Groller empire.

Then followed a brief morning tea, followed by an exciting 4WD trip around the property, in Frank Groller’s personal Landcruiser, scratching it furiously on the narrow property tracks.
We saw the Great Wall of China, a wall-like rock formation, the Sphinx, another rock formation that didn’t look like a sphinx, then an outback camp the manager had set up, with fine hot water “donkey”, a “Thunderbox” loo and some primitive tent structures that looked surprisingly comfortable.
We saw brumbies, Euros and some interesting artists at the camp.
Lunch back at the resort where we were entertained by variously a small joey, a brace” of peacock and a rather indolent “Red” dog.
Then off to explore Trephina Gorge, with a very pretty rim walk, looking over the ochre red cliffs into a wide gorge with a small running creek.
Then down into the gorge, onto the sand and a couple of easy creek crossings then back to the bus.
On the way out of the gorge, a visit to the highest Ghost Gum in the East Macs at 33 metres, a stately tree.
Then followed Jessie Gap and Emily Gap with fine rock walls, now bathed in the afternoon light and some intriguing rock paintings.
Back to the caravan park, to catch up with the others day activities.
All in all a rather boring day!! I only took 51 pictures which you can see IN DUE COURSE.
Tomorrow we finish!

Day 15 Simpson Gap to Jay Creek

Bond Gap
An early start as have quite a walk today, and it’s hot for us around 24 degrees and we suffered yesterday.
So wakey wakey at 5.30, breakfast at 6.00AM and into the bus an hour later.
We were on the track at 7.35 AM, from Simpson’s Gap, on what started as quite a cold morning. Hands cold, crisp morning with delightful colours around the hills.
We had decided to walk Simpson’s to Jay Creek, as the previous day had been quite warm and we wanted to start in the cool.
The Track was a great piece of track construction, following the contours with some great benching and even an arch bridge with keystones.
The actual trail did not follow what was on the map
First stop at Bond Gap, with a delightful rock pool leading through the gap, with reeds and still water, with great reflections.

The day started to warm up, so the next stop at Mulga  Camp was “first lunch”.  A rather interesting dunny and had two tanks supplied with water from Alice. The dunny was corrugated iron composting in a snail configuration and hot and horrible, though had toilet paper.
The walk was over savanna country and had a sameness about most of it most of the day.
Then a walk through a small gap, Spring Gap, where we had “second lunch” (I think we are turning into Hobbits) and out towards Jay creek, via an undulating trail, still nicely benched and good walking.
We arrived at Jay Creek at 3.00PM and the water was still deliciously cold.
We were then given free rein as Simon took the back marker position, so I was able to stride out and arrived at the bus at 3.58PM with the rest of the group arriving over the next 15 minutes.
It was then a repeat of the previous day’s trip home, with a mad scramble for the showers, before dinner.
After dinner, the entertainment was “Telegraph” a bit like Chinese whispers, in which a message is whispered from person to person to see what arrives at the other end of the circle.
Colin was the Senior Telegrapher, reading the message to the first person and so on.
One is worth repeating. The message was “Dear Simon, Sorry to hear your bum is on fire stop try using potato salad in the evening or porridge in the morning stop love Ethel.”
This came out as ”I am sorry Robyn but your butt is on fire with potato thrip. Please try something else”.
Simon's thoughts of the day-Life's goal is to take control

Day 13 Alice Springs Rest Day

Tent city, Alice Springs
Simon slept well however I did not. I was told that no one cares how I sleep however they would be interested in his sleep patterns. So there it is!!
Most headed off to Alice town centre and spent at least part of the day there, shopping, coffeeing and generally lazing about.
Some stayed and did washing, then headed off and some just headed off.
Some walked back from Alice Springs and some just read all day.
A lazy day ahead of a potentially big day tomorrow.

Updated all the remote camp blogs without pictures, the connection here is crap and it’s twice as expensive as Glen Helen.
The evening was concluded with the second meeting of The Birthday Creek Poetry Society with Colin starting with a rendition of Mammy, then Jane with another gem, Caravanning Bliss.
Peter Wynen had us in tears with one of Banjo’s sadder poems, "Lost" however cheered us with "Mulga Bill’s Bicycle".
Eve read “Said Harahan” and Steve read “The Farting Competition”.
The evening ended with a duet of Simon and Vicki singing and “From Little things, Big Things Grow” and Eve sang a piece from “Hair”.

Friday, August 3, 2012

Day 14 Standley Chasm to Jay Creek

The waterfall

An early start as we have quite a hard day. Simon slept well with his dulcet snoring running through the night; HOWEVER I had an attack of the restless legs and slept badly.
The tenters all snored like mad so I am told!
An early start meant a chilly start though a hotter day was predicted, and so it proved.
The trip out to Standley Chasm was quick, the Spinifex Tongs went to Jo for sharing her massage skills with people who were suffering. When are we going to get a really controversial nomination.
Meanwhile I was trying to get the group through Standley Chasm, as it appears that walkers can  now no longer us the Chasm to continue the Larapinta. I thought I had gained permission, until he chased us and refused to let us proceed.
So it was up and over the Chasm, missing the highlights that cost others $10.00.


So began a hard hot day.
A steady climb up to Gastrolobium Saddle, followed by some interesting climbs down waterfall faces using various ledges and steps. Good stuff.
Then some creek walking, boulders and stones and ankle  twisting territory.
At Millers Flat we had a choice to do the alternative high route, or the normal route through the valley, which involved another climb to Tangentyere Junction.
It was a day of creek walking with sand and rocks.
By this time shady lunch spots were hard to find however we managed some shade, and during lunch Colin managed to fall over!
Then on to Fish Hole a delightful waterhole between a small chasm, that required another climb to get from one side to the other. Some bathed their sore feet whilst others just sat  in the shade and looked on.
Then began a tedious sandy creek walk to Jay Creek, a campsite with delightfully cool tank water and then another monotonous walk along a property track to Hamilton Downs car park.
Tired people on the bus, most slept on the way home via the Tanami Road back to Alice Springs.
A mad rush for the showers and many tired faces at dinner.
Simon's thoughts of the day-Life is a rock

Thursday, August 2, 2012

Day 12 Birthday Waterhole to Standley Chasm

Yours truly at the top
Another fitful night, in which the “compass” air mattress swung from East west to SE/NW. Those bloody magnetic fields!
Breakfast again included the bacon and eggs, even in this remote site and again we were off after having broken camp ie i.e. dropped the tents and packed them up.
The Spinifex Tongs went from Vicki to Peter Solomon......
Once again off at 7.45AM with a sandy creek walk to get us in the mood,  to reach the track and our turn off. An easy start, past Mintbush Spring to Stuart’s Pass that was where Charles MacDowell Stewart managed to find a pass through the ranges that bear his name.
Then began the ascent of Brinkley Bluff, the highest point on the Trail.

Initially, a steep ascent up to a saddle, then a disappointing loss of height to looks into the cycad valley revealed at Rocky Cleft, then the climb up Brinkley proper, with the track zigzagging its way up the steep slope. In fact it zigzagged so much the front group went zigging, when they should have zagged. A very alert back marker saw the error and took the correct route, followed by some of the back people, arriving at the summit some 10 minutes before the misled group.
Brinkley Bluff showed magnificent views all around and precipitated an early lunch to soak them up. The log book showed Jeremy Carter, a Friends’ member had camped there some weeks ago.
A four kilometre ridge top walk to Reveal Saddle then a constant descent into a rocky creek for the walk out to Standley Chasm.
A welcome Magnum ice cream whilst awaiting the bus, sitting resting tired feet and sore legs.
Our remote camps were over and it would be showers tonight in Alice.
The MacDonnell Ranges Caravan Park is a true cut above Glen Helen, spacious rooms with carpet, bed lights and cupboards that don’t collapse, a large common room.
My boots still hadn’t come in, however to date the glued Scarpa’s were doing well and may even see the walk to its completion
David the driver was buggered after packing and moving, so dinner was at the one of the local clubs with a couple of large beers.
Back at base a few wines and some port followed for one of our most successful alcohol free days!!
Simon's thouight of the day-Life is a research project
Pictures to follow

Day 11 Hugh Gorge to Birthday Waterhole.

Razorback Ridge
A fitful night, rolling back and forth from side to side, with my Exped air mattress rotating 45 degrees from its original position.
Then the usual early 7.45 AM start, with the Spinifex Tongs going to Vicki who had stolen David, the driver’s egg at breakfast, though Colin was a strong contender as he had managed to collapse his tent exiting for a pee the night prior, and dropping the tent this morning before Peter Wynen had managed to get all his gear out.
It was the a rocky gorge walk in the early morning light through Hugh Gorge followed by a climb onto Rocky Saddle.
An easy descent to Fringe Lily campsite (bugger all to see) and then a vicious climb to Razorback Ridge, which truly lived up to its name, with us sometimes walking on the edge with a drop off some many metres each side.

It was up down, up down to Windy Saddle, living to its name, then another steep descent to Spencer Gorge, and another of those rock-hopping experiences, then to cheese us all off, a climb to a saddle before descending to Birthday Waterhole.
This was a tiny camp-site off track on the banks of a small water-hole with “cold” water, where a number of us took the opportunity to wash off some accumulated dust, grime and sunblock.
The tents were packed two deep on the small site and there were few places to sit.
Fish for dinner BBQ’ed on the hot plate with apple turnover things for desert.
We did manage to develop a rocky amphitheatre for the poetry reading, thirst meeting of the Birthday Creek Poetry Society.
Jane started proceedings with “Now I am Six” and we were truly entertained by some great poems and dissertations and even a song. The night finished strongly with Peter Wynen’s rendition of a couple of Banjo’s poems.
After the poetry reading, most headed off to bed, it being by now 7.30PM!!! Hardier soles lay on the sand and looked for satellites the task being made very difficult by a near full moon. They were rewarded however by two shooting stars and a couple of bats.
Cold drove them to bed.
Simon's thought of the dat-Belief closes the mind.

Day 10 Ellery Creek to Hugh Gorge.

Ghost Gums
Today was to be a long day, 31 km across the plain from the Heavitree Range to the Chewings Range.
Most slept poorly for a variety of reasons, and it was cold as well.
An early wake-up call with a departure at 7.30AM.
Today we farewelled Eleanor, who having walked the previous day with bad blisters realised that she was not really able to continue. The day had been torture for her, so a taxi was arranged to get her out, there being no room in the troopie. In fact we weren’t sure there would be room for the driver with all the gear that had to be packed.
The Spinifex Award changed hands from Eve to Julian for “caring medical attention” and we were off with an easy start, then a climb through a saddle in the range, at which time Simon became concerned at our rather slow progress.

He felt a cross country bash would be appropriate to cut a kilometre or so off the walk.
After a very steep drop off the saddle, suddenly we had no front group, only the back group walking the track.
We had lost the front group who had followed Simon, and the back group simply followed the path.
The race was then on to see where we would meet.
The back group won, as they were less blackened by burnt trees along the off track path.
Morning tea was off track in a small depression out of the wind.
A party of three walkers coming the other direction, oblivious to our presence got the shock of their lives to find 18 people sitting just off the track. They were from USA and NZ.
It was then a plod along with ups and downs past Rocky Gully camp, no real campsite to see other than a creek bed, then past Ghost Gum Flat and on to Hugh Gorge.
Hugh Gorge was a very primitive campsite with few places for our tents, and only some tree trunks and rocks for seating. No Toilet so the spade was put into service.
David and Peter had taken 5 hours to pack all the gear, then had a 22 KM horrendous goat track drive in.
In spite of this we had rice and stroganoff then off to bed a hard day with sore feet.
Simon's thought of the day-Dance or we are lost

Day 9 Serpentine Gorge to Ellery Creek

Trig Hill with old style trig

Today was pack up day, divide our gear and get ready for our remote camping.
Some gear to come out bush and the rest to have a small holiday in Alice Springs, whilst we trek the wilds of the West MacDonnell’s.
The Spinifex Tongs were passed from Steve to Eve ....then we were off for what the guides said was a hard day. The map didn’t look too bad however we soon found why the rating was as it and was.
There was a side trip to Serpentine Gorge that some took the opportunity to take, whilst others just waited.

The walk was a continuous sawtooth, that culminated in what was labelled a Trip Point tho it was many feet lower than the main range. We decided that the surveyor was just a lazy bastard.
So up and down we went and crossed back into the National Park by what we believe is the only stile on the trail. And a very poor effort it was too.
We staggered into Ellery Creek after what was  a hard day to find the camp set up, tents all up and David the driver and Peter the gopha all ready for us.
Tents allocated, mattresses blown up and sleeping bags in position, we were set up for the night.
Dinner was soup and a steak sandwich to follow and then the final of the film night.
Steve presented the Blues Brother, followed by the Sting by Julian and then Dead Man by Simon. All well received however Margaret and David’s contract had not been renewed so there was no critique.
Bed followed.
Simon's thoughts of the day-Every kiss is a first

Saturday, July 28, 2012

Day 8 Ochre Pits to Serpentine Gorge

Bitter and twisted rock
Another windy start to a day in which I slept poorly, even after a 28 km marathon, the previous day.
Breakfast completed and onto the bus for our usual 8.00AM departure for a 20km stroll!
The Spinifex Tongs were passed from Colin to Steve, who Colin felt was appropriate as he had a soft touch, suitable for removing Spinifex spikes from posteriors.
Ochre pits starts with a 500metres stroll along a 3 metre wide paved path! The ochre puts are quite splendid with colours poorly revealed in photos.
Swathes of reds, whites and yellows along a creek bank for about 500 metres.
Then the walk began in earnest, with a brief walk up Inarlanga Pass to see the ancient cycads, that populate the pass. We should have walked this gorge yesterday but our shortcut caused us to miss this.
It was then on to Serpentine Chalet Camp where we had morning tea and some ventured up to see the Serpentine Valley dam that supplied the chalet.
There deep in this ravine is a concrete structure over 30 feet tall made of concrete with a tangle of metal pipes at its base. The dam had filled in with rocks and sand however there was a deep pool leading to a very narrow gorge out of our reach.

Then began our climb onto the ridge a 250 metre climb that ended on a splendid ridge with great views, and out of the chilly wind.
Some of the more energetic trekked off to see Counts Point and the view of the West MacDonald’s.
The less adventurous walked on after lunch and had a great ridge walk, walking at time alongside a precipitous drop into the valley below.
Then off the ridge down stone steps, great work by the Larapinta builders and finally back to the bus.
This is our last night at Glen Helen as we move to Ellery Creek tomorrow to start our remote camps.
This has caused some consternation among the troops as it means trimming their baggage to a minimum. Mad scrambling to fit all that is required into the space that’s allowed as it all has to come in into each camp the back of one Troopie.

Day 7 Ormiston Gore to Ochre Pits

Bloody Mount Sonder
What looked like a hard day proved to live up to all expectations.
An early start, with breakfast at 6.30AM and  departure at 7.30AM.
The Spinifex Tong Award was given to Colin for his Bear Grylls impersonation wading Ormiston Gorge.
An initial creek walk and an easy run with a slow and steady ascent with morning tea in a creek.
Then began the climb proper, punctuated by one of the group leaving his camera behind.
The ridge line was reached with great views back to Sonder and into the Ormiston Pound.
A painful walk along the ridge, through a veritable minefield of rocks until our lunch spot, opposite Mount Giles was reached.
Then a short walk to the  lookout where views to the east almost to Alice Springs and Mount Sonder and Mount Ziel to the west.
Soon after a precipitous descent to Rainbow Creek and Rainbow Gorge where Chris decided a twisted ankle would be a good idea. Some strapping and she was off.
A long walk ensued over rocky ground with the track indistinct and hard to follow in places.
At this stage it was getting late so a planned short-cut was investigated by Simon.

This was Pioneer Gorge that cut through a ridgeline to the plain and Ochre Pits, our destination.
The gorge descent was quite spectacular, yet quite dangerous with boulder and rock hopping the order of the day, around rock pools until almost out onto the plain that one last rock pool that blocked out path.
So it was boots off, once again, and a cold wade to the crutch, much to everyone’s chagrin.
We had almost finished except the 3 km wade through the Spinifex back to the bus.
An 8.00AM start with a 6.00PM finish made for one long day, late dinner with a number of tired bodies sloping off to an early bedtime.
Chris survived, with a sore ankle, others survived with multiple stab wounds from Spinifex.
Simon's thought of the day-Ordinary is extra

Thursday, July 26, 2012

Day 6 Ormiston Pound and Gorge

Entrance to Ormiston Gorge from the pound
 A windy night, that had the tents flapping, but kept the dingo out of the rubbish bins, and made for a slightly warmer night.
We also had a later start, as this WAS our rest day, so breakfast was consumed some 30 minutes later than our usual time.
Not all wanted to walk the pound, as this meant wading in crutch deep water in the gorge whilst others had blisters that needed resting, and some were a little fazed by our 30km day to follow tomorrow.
John Quinn also needed the day to go into Alice to get new boots as his had seriously delaminated, with the sole flapping like a large tongue collecting sand.
We had attacked them with contact adhesive, and they looked pretty good, however he wasn’t taking chances.
My boots had also started to delaminate like John’s, tho somewhat less dramatically, and the contact had done its job pretty well. Nevertheless, I was getting some alternative footwear flown up from Adelaide, Just in case. Thanks Toots!!!
So with a later start, and a cool day and only 11 km to walk it looked like a rest day should.
We climbed up onto the southern rim of the pound, past the occasional impressive ghost gum, to attain stunning views over the pound and back to the pound outlet, Ormiston Gorge.
It was an easy descent into the pound with a leisurely morning tea by a waterfall with the mouth of the gorge gaping at us, as we sat.
A lone walker came by with a silly hat!! Like we are the only ones with silly hats. I guess not.
It was then into the gorge, alternatively rock hopping, then sand strolling until we reached the part we had to wade.
Some just took of boots and waded through with chilly water up to the “bits”, however some stripped to the waist, from the boots up, and plunged in.  


Most, I should say were much more discrete and apart from the semi-nudist there were appropriate screams, expletives and hoots of laughter, as the water touched sensitive parts.
It was then a short stroll to the Ormiston Campground where lunch was taken, with an ice cream, as there is a kiosk.
So another early day back to camp with some more time to read, do more washing and generally laze about.
So back to the blogging with some success albeit slow and 500 for others.
A roast for dinner in rather cold windy conditions, then back to the bar at the resort with Slim Pickings playing his blues.
Tomorrow a big day 30km so an earlier start.
Simon's thought of the day- Know thyself

Day 5 Ormiston Gorge to Glen Helen

Bloody Mount Sonder again!
Another cold morning start with the stars still bright in the sky, however all tempered by a great breakfast and some good coffee.
The bus trip to the start was brief and our start time was the earliest to date-8.20AM.
Walking out of what looked like a very posh camp ground that had taps at every camp point, gas BBQ’s and toilets and a rangers station.
The walk was an easy 14 km and followed some splendid creek lines, then a gentle climb up to a lookout point that gave good all round views including what has become the ubiquitous Mt Sonder.
It was then a descent into the Fink River, the oldest river in the world.
On the way we were urged to get a stone from the creek bed as a “story stone”. This was to be used for story telling later in the day.
Lunch was in the shade of a rock that had a large weathered hole in it, through which the trail passed, with views to Glen Helen.
We had walked so well that we arrived back at base just after 1.00PM so had plenty of time to wash, shower and do various house-keeping duties.
Some luckier members, Chris, managed a 2 hour massage, whilst others just had to manage with a vicious hand of 500.


Our  driver and the support crew had headed off to Alice Springs to get some business dealt with and their late arrival back, having demolished a whole troupe of budgerigars delayed, on their way back.
Dinner was a stir fry vegetables with sweet and sour chicken and rice followed by apricots and ice cream. Not a bad effort considering their late start.
Dinner was followed by the “Story Stone” session, run by Chris who was now feeling no pain after her massage, who asked us to tell a story about how we got into walking and how that lead to a connection with the Friends.
Most of the group participated with some very interesting insight into what started people on the path to bushwalking, why they continue and their associated with the Friends.
Unfortunately, too many to include in this narrative, but one is worthy of mention here, that being from Simon who told us he walked the Trail the first time for himself and the next time for other people.
Note the internet connection at Glen Helen is flaky in the extreme hence the lack of pictures. This will be made  good when and if I can.
Simon's thought of the day- The pursuit of happiness doesn't require movement

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Day 4 Redbanks Gorge to Glen Helen

Mount Sonder again
A  good night’s sleep started a great day of walking.
Breakfast done and dusted we were out at 8.00AM in the bus to the gorge and walking by 8.45AM.
A good flat track along the Redbank Creek , twisting and turning through splendid mallee country, punctuated by a small number of ghost gums.
We set a good pace getting along at about 5 km per hour.
Morning tea off the track within a nice mallee grove in the shade, as the day was warming up.
Rocky Gap camp preceded a pretty creek walk and lunch in the creek.
The day heated up just in time for our climb to the lookout.



All the way we had great views of our previous days walk, Mount Sonder.
At the top all round views, back to Sonder to the west, Glen Helen to the south and onto Mount Giles.
Then began a long hard decent back to the mallee plain.
By now the day had heated up and the we had a hard final trek back to Glen Helen.
For some straight to the shower, others straight to the bar, either way we all had sore feet.
The evening meal of soup, steak and ice cream with blackberry turnover, the followed the long awaited Tuesday Cheap Film Night in which various members of the party presented their favourite film, as we passed Jaffas around.
David and Margaret critiqued the movies, the first being The Tempest, by Jim Alvey, a Shakespearean drama -which was given 2 and 3.5, respectively.
The second movie was a Japanese drama, The Departure, by Robyn Quinn, about a Japanese cello player who prepares bodies after death, and the cello disappears from the scene, given 3.5 and 4 with amusing comments by the critiques.
The next movie of the night, Sound of Music, a story of a nun and some sort of love story with some old duke guy, presented by Liz Alvey was greeted with derisory cries by the captive audience, as this movie was felt to be rather done over.  Scoring 2 and 5, what a softie.
Jo presented Thelma and Louise, a romantic comedy about two wild women of the Bonnie and Claudia genre. Margaret just loved this movie, one about women and gave it 4. David however was quite derogatory and gave it only 2.
Vicki presented Love Actually,  a soppy story about a single British PM who falls for  Bill Nighy drawing  genitals on a poster. The plot was hard to follow and I doubt it will score well.
Margaret was not impressed gave it 4 and David a 2.
So the winner of the night was Departures.
Then to cap it off the projector blew its bulb and there was no replacement, so a number of the audience repaired to the bar.
It was resolved to have another movie night so we could se those that had been missed.
Simon's thought of the day-Sieze the day

Monday, July 23, 2012

Day 3 Redbank Gorge to Mount Sonder

Wakey wakey was at 6.30AM with breakfast at 7.00AM. Some pretty sleepy faces emerged from the tents, yet most seemed to sleep well. I certainly did, apart from the early hours run to the loo.
Breakfast was pretty good, large variety of cereals, porridge and then bacon and eggs.
The final flurry of getting ready, curses as long gaiters, long NOT worn, were being put on, and not fitting, and we were off just a bit late.
Drive to Redbank was pretty with Mont Sonder, our goal, well in view off to the north.
The start of the walk was delayed by the briefing and the explanation of the awards for the trek. The Spinifex Award for the most significant event or occurrence through the day. The award, a pair of BBQ tongs to assist the removal of Spinifex from various buttock that have the misfortune to find themselves residing in a patch of the said bush.
The Spinifex Tonds ward
The first award was given to Russell O’Brien, who knitted his own beanie following instructions from You-tube.
It was chilly and windy through Redbank Gorge, and after a short walk along Redbank Creek, brilliant red hues along the gorge and finally our path blocked by a rock pool that prevented further access to the gorge that looked pretty and narrow. It was intriguing to see a life preserver on the bank of the creek.
Then, as is Simon’s whim, we bush-bashed out of the creek to pick up the Larapinta in its ascent to Mount Sonder.
Then ensued a steady climb, with various ridge-line and saddles to be negotiated, with the views opening up with each climb.
Morning tea at the Mount Sonder Lookout, still a chilly wind kept up with us, however with ascent progressing the day warmed.
The Mount Sonder summit is not actually reached on this walk, rather the south peak of Mount Sonder.
Having struggled up to the top, much to some of the women's amusement Colin was heard to exclaim "What an orgasmic climax"!


Lunch at the top, and the chance to  talk as there was a Telstra connection, presumably through from Alice Springs.
The longest lunch I can recall with the Friends then took place with an hour lazing looking at the view, 360 panorama, on top of the work, apart from the fact that the real summit lay about 850m across a treacherous looking saddle.
The wind had dropped, the day warmed and we then had the descent back to the Redbanks Camping ground and the bus.
A long rather slow exercise, as a number of the walkers didn’t seem that confident with rocky path. Interesting to watch how people use their sticks. Some just wave them around without then actually contacting terra firma, and then try and awkwardly step down, other leaning back as they attempt to go forward. No wonder at times it was slow.
The track is well marked, rocky and HARD.
I think most had sore feet.
Simon's thought for the day-Who Cares Wins

Day 2 Coober Pedy to Glen Helen


We successfully cross the border
The night was punctuated by the sonorous tones of a lone snorer, at least at our end of the Cave.
Nevertheless most of us slept well, though were woken too early by a miscreant playing the Pomp and Circumstance March.
A 5.00AM wake, the  breakfast at 5.30 with a getaway at 6.10AM, just 10 minutes late.
The dawn broke at 7.00AM somewhere on the way to Marla Bore.
A stop there for coffee and a pee then on to the border.
Wedge tail eagles on the road, getting at the road kill, and being harassed by crows the excitement of the trip to the border.
A brief stop to take pictures of the border crossing and a checking of visa and we were off with Erldunda our next stop and a brief lunch.
Alice Springs arrived and we had an hour to get last minute bits and pieces.

There was a mad scramble for various last minute purchases, water tooth paste and various snacky things.
Picked up our last two trekkers, Jo and John who had flown up and then we headed off to Glen Helen.
At last we got out of the bus after two days and inspected the cabins, whilst the tent people had instruction in tent erection.
The cabins are what you would call basic, and that’s being polite. There is nowhere to hang things, the one set of drawers rock and the drawers fall out onto your toes.
At least we all have a lower bunk.
The tent people actually have more room, albeit on the one level.
Dinner at last, Glen Helen
Dinner at the Glen Helen resort, a BBQ and apple crumble and ice cream, again. Pretty good really.
The Resort has a resident singer who entertained the less bed ready, though turn in time was still only 9.30PM.
The bed was comfortable and sleep came easily.
Link to the pics https://plus.google.com/photos/115827045141699129695/albums/5768309931775987569

Sunday, July 22, 2012

Day 1 Adelaide to Coober Pedy

The loadmaster surveys the load
The day did not start that auspiciously! A 4.30AM alarm, the final pack and then my driver arriving 15 minutes earlier than anticipated in finding me sitting on the bog. A mix up communications in which Arrienne’s interpretation won the day and finding me In that embarrassing situation.
The morning was rather pleasant as we all assembled at ETSA park however my happy demeanour was deflated when a call from Eve suggested that there was no bus yet at pick-up point one-Paradise.
Meanwhile the troops arrived and the dimensions of the luggage began to reveal itself. There was lots!
Some 20 minutes later as call from Sonya, the Banksia Tours cook, to say they were on their way down the hill, from Houghton.
So there we were like a bridegroom without the bride.
Finally an hour late, with all lights blazing the bus arrived, and David the driver, contemplated the space available and what needed to be packed. It all fitted and we were off, with an early morning mist accompanying us for much of the first few hours.

The bus had plenty of room inside, a row of seats each at least so we spread out, with most catching up with some of the lost sleep.
Port Wakefield came and went after the obligatory loo stop and a coffee. Then Port Augusta for an early lunch in the park.
Dem rastas are everywhere
Then the long haul to Glendambo with another loo and ice cream stop. By this stage most had settled into a routine of Kindle reading, normal book reading or snoozing. Sporadic conversations at the back of the bus, catching up on the footy scores as we came in and out of Telstra mobile range, then more snoozing.
As dusk fell the lights of Coober Pedy came into view and we pulled into the Opal Cave, our accommodation for the night.
The Opal Cave is a back-packers hewn out of the hill in typical Coober Pedy fashion, with a large central passage and alcoves each side with two bunk beds each room. We all scored a lower bunk, and some even their own alcove.
Unpacked and set up for sleep, some headed for the local bottle shop and some for the showers. You just got to get your priorities right!
Meanwhile, our driver and the Banksia Tours crew are setting up for dinner, putting out seats and trestles, and stirring pots of bubbling stuff. Soup, pasta and dessert later and we are full.
A dancing demonstration by Vicki and Simon, Jim and Liz and its time for bed.
We have another early start in the morning.

Thursday, July 19, 2012

Penultimate Packing Day

One day to go, to get the packing right and some consternation seems to be filling the email airwaves.
"How come I can go bushwalking for a month - carrying 7 days worth of breakfasts, lunches and dinners, a tent, cooking equipment and fuel - and it all fits into my backpack along with everything else.
Now I don't have to provide any of that, and I am struggling to fit it into a suitcase, daypack and carry-on luggage." Peter
"Touche Pete I have managed to solidly fill a 60L backpack and my day pack weighs 7kg!" Jo
And they think they have problems.
And still no pillow
Mind you a doctor's bag, an extra first aid kit and some radios doesn't help. Then neither does two cartons of red, and I'm not going to bother about water until A/S (see FAQ), so I shouldn't complain.
Of course I forgot to add my travel back pack with computer, Galaxy tablet and various electronic bibs and bobs. At least that will go with me on the bus.
Some more email exchanges-
"Sounds like you’re doing very well. I am up to a daypack, two boxes, couple of shopping bags and a large luggage bag. Have to find room for a pillow, boots yet." Julian
"Gee its not just a girl thing.. too much stuff! l will be wearing the boots and be rugged up like an eskimo enroute.. Pete has the box with the all important red alcohol and a small pillow bless him. Good luck packing." Jo
"Sorry Jo - only half the red survived the trip back from Kingston Beach. The waters OK though!" Peter
"Cheeky.. it would not be pretty without my medicine! I wholeheartedly trust it will make it up to Alice in it entire volume. Keep packing guys Im done." Jo
So you can see where the priorities lie.



Monday, July 16, 2012

Less than a week to go...

Now less than a week to go and the casualties are mounting.
We have one getting over the flu yet retaining a vicious cough, one working their way through a cold, one who thinks she is about to get the Man Flu and one who has developed sciatica.
In spite of all this, fifteen of the crew fronted on Sunday for the Sea to Summit, that iconic walk that takes you from Kingston Park through the parks and greenways to Mount Lofty summit. All up nearly 32 km with 1400m ascent, even though Mount Lofty is only 727m. Go figure?
Magpie Creek in spate
There has been great discussion about packing, getting everything in and how much room there will be on the bus, how much grog to take.
Also some consternation when it was revealed that our main camp, Glen Helen, does not allow BYO alcohol due to their licencing restrictions. Guess that resolves some of the discussion about quantity.
Looks like some pretty good Happy Hours at the bar however, until the money runs out.
Otherwise, all is go, the meeting places and times all fixed it's just that packing that needs sorting.
All in good time no doubt!!!

Friday, July 6, 2012

Two weeks out

The scope of the walk
The plan to walk the Larapinta Trail, as part of the Friends' walking programme, had been floated for some years. With more time on our hands and less sense it was added to the 2012 Walking Programme in 2011, and so 19 members of the Friends now find themselves just two weeks away from setting off.
The Trek will start at the western end of the Larapinta, near Mount Sonder and walk back to Alice Springs, summitting the said Mount Sonder on Day one.
The preparations started back in June 2011, seeking quotes from various companies willing to undertake the logistic support for the whole trip ie Adelaide to Adelaide return, full meals, tents, the whole kit and caboodle.
Advice was sought from ARPA, who had done the trip in 2008, and it was from them we were able to appraise the quotes we obtained with some confidence.
Surprisingly, all the quotes came in within $100 of each other, per person, however we chose the company with the track record, Banksia Tours.
At this point we struck some problems as communications with Banksia proved difficult and for nearly two months there was silence. The impasse was broken by harsh words on our part, and since then all has been relatively smooth sailing.
The walk, muted in earlier TrailWalker magazines, leading to expressions of interest looked a real goer, with nearly thirty walkers throwing their hat in the ring.
As often happens, when money is asked to follow, the enthusiasm wavers, and after some toing and froing we finally had our twenty walkers.
Negotiations then revolved around who would tent and who would cabin and the cost, who would share with whom, and who snored.
Training was initiated by Simon, along with the regular Thursday evening bash around Chambers Gully that evolved from the Friends' trips to Kokoda in 2008.
Heading towards the start line in two weeks a theme for the Trek was announced "Badges and Beanies" and some events programmed for the evenings.
A FAQ was set up provoking, spirited responses and counter responses and some curious questions.
The final round of payments, with all but the tardy digging deep, has come, and we are in countdown mode.
One last big walk as a shakedowm, the George Driscoll Sea to Summitt, then we are off.